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1 Down 69 To Go

This past weekend, I went down to the New River Gorge.  We ended up at Endless Wall both days.  The highlights are:

Exoduster (10b) – Redpoint

Stim-o-Stam (11c) – Redpoint in 2 tries

S’more Energy (11c) – 2 trouble spots…no send

Party in My Mind (10b) – Top rope

Homer Erectus (11b) – Top rope

Remission (10b) – Top rope

Be sure to listen to the Podcast for all t…

Annual Pilgrimage to Coopers Rock

Be sure to check out several more photos on my Facebook page in the “2013 Coopers Rock” album!

It seems about once a year we make it to the Gritstone laden forest known as Coopers Rock.  It usually occurs when the weather forecast makes a weekend trip unfavorable,  but one of the two weekend days looks good.  Such was the case this past weekend, when the weatherman was calling for a…

Sport turned Trad turned Awesome

The name for this post came from a dedicated fan.  At first, I was a bit unsure.  It wouldn’t follow my pattern of “First of 2013” or some other boring title, but as the weekend progressed, “Sport turned Trad turned Awesome” became more and more fitting.  You can’t ask for better weather in early March.  Looking back at last Spring, this trip was one week earlier than our first trip last…

Conditioning For Climbers Book Review

Due to the winter weather, I’ve been training hard in the basement.  I’m hoping that we have less than a month of the cold left because I’m itching to climb again!  There’s no better time to review one of my favorite training books, Conditioning For Climbers, by Eric Horst.  Like many of Horst’s newer books, this one is jam packed with full color photographs and diagrams.  Most of t…

Louder Than Eleven Visits The New

I stumbled across this video the other day and had to share it.  I usually don’t post other videos, but when it’s a video as well done as this AND it’s about my home crag… I’ll make an exception!  Ben Spannuth from Louder Than Eleven recently visited the New and crushed.  The footage also includes Mike Williams, NRG guidebook author and editor of Deadpoint Magazine.

The Importance of Supplementation

In this podcast, help I talk about the importance of dietary supplementation.  Taking supplements will speed your recovery and muscle soreness will decrease faster than normal.  I have found these all to be a huge benefit for multi-day climbing trips and training for climbing.  The convenience of using these supplements versus eating real food is worth it to me.

 

The protein powder…

Mountain Athlete Training Method

Before you read the article (or even if you don’t! 😛  ) watch this video first!  Rob Shaul of Mountain Athlete is one of the foremost training gurus in mountain sports.  He trains professional guides and athletes every day.  To read my experience training in person with Shaul, check this out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLpZuhgnvyQ

If you’ve read my site for some time, you know…

New Friends New Psych

I flew solo this past weekend.  Losing my favorite climbing partner, Gaelyn, to a work conference in California, left me searching for a dedicated belayer friend to climb with for the weekend.  Fortunately, my new friend Chris and his girlfriend, Spencer, invited me to crash their party for the weekend.  I met Chris two weeks ago when we did a trail day to clear the Endless Wall trail after…

Slow Signs of Progress

Our weekend started off similar to any other trip to the New River Gorge with a drive down Saturday morning.  This one was slightly different because it was November 10th, and the forecast was a balmy 65 degrees.  To say it was a polar opposite of last weekend would be an understatement!  We were headed to the Lower Meadow to meet up with our friends Greg and Jamie.  The Lower Meadow is a bit…

Unexpected Conditions

We had every intention of spending three fantastic days down at the New River Gorge.  Yes, Hurricane Sandy dumped a whole lot of snow on Summersville and Fayetteville earlier in the week.  But Thursday and Friday were sunny… no problem right?  As we drove down Saturday morning and made our way closer to Summersville, the view from the road wasn’t looking good.  Tree limbs were snapped off…