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The Last of 2010

New River Gorge

As we drove down to the New River Gorge on Friday night, I knew it would likely be our last trip as I saw the car thermometer dip into the high thirties.  It was going to be a cold couple nights, but it was worth it.

Saturday, we spent our day at Whippoorwill, which is part of Summersville Lake.  As the sun peaked through the clouds we warmed up on Cowboy in the Dirt (8) and then moved over…

Reel Rock Tour 2010

Last week, I went to see the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour at a small university near Pittsburgh.  Quite simply, it was awesome!  Below are some thoughts on my favorites at the tour.

First Round First Minute: It’s always amazing to see Chris Sharma on his projects.  This one focused on his latest project, First Round First Minute, which will likely go at 15b.  In the film, Sharma…

Irrational Fear of Falling

Left Flank Red River Gorge

During our last trip to the New River Gorge, an irrational but strong fear of falling overcame Gaelyn to the point where she was unwilling to climb further, but also unwilling to take a fall… even a practice fall.  We both thought that she had conquered her fear of falling earlier this year, apparently not.  But first… the background story.

About two years ago, when we first started to…

Another New Weekend

Kaymoor New River Gorge Butcher's Branch

Last weekend we went down to the New River Gorge, for potentially our last climbing weekend of the season.  We have some things to do for the next two weeks, so it could be our last if it gets cold.  Friday night camping was quite chilly and dipped down into the low 30’s.  But, we awoke to a perfect, fall morning on Saturday.  We had met some friends down there and were psyched for a perfect…

Arnold vs. Spider Monkey

Skinny dave graham

All climbers fear getting “too big”.  We don’t want excessive muscle bulk because it will hinder our performance on the rock.  Arnold would not be a good climber.  On the other end of the spectrum there is the skinny spider monkey boy.  Lots of climbers look like this and I think it’s a mistake.

Now, first off, I’m no gun show.  I’m still quite thin, but I used to be muc…

My Views on Training

Top of a thruster

Rock climbing may be one of the most complex and difficult sports to train for.  No other sport seems to encompass power, view speed, endurance, and flexibility, all while revolving around how much you weigh.  We are constantly searching for the happy medium between muscle mass and overall body weight.  Over the past year I have extensively studied different training methods and exercises…

Breakthrough!

A Late One

A couple weeks ago, Gaelyn and I spent the week climbing at Linville Gorge and at the Red River Gorge. We started our week down at Linville cruising some sweet multipitch lines at Table Rock. Fall was in full swing and the place is beautiful. If you ever get a chance to climb at Linville, do it. We did a bunch of easy lines just to enjoy the weather and work on our multipitch skills. To our…

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