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Staying Psyched While Injured

scope shoulder surgery dislocation repair

Getting injured can be one of the most disheartening things for a climber, medicine or any athlete for that matter.  Maintaining the mental psyche can be very difficult during a down time but it is extremely important.  I unfortunately know all about this experience.  I’ve dislocated both shoulders several times resulting in surgery on both shoulders:  the right one in ’05 and the left…

My Daily Diet


Be sure to check out the update to this article here!

Learning what and when to eat can be the most confusing thing to learn for athletes.  Whether cutting fat or building muscle, eating properly is more important than the exercise you do, in my opinion.  Many people fail in their fat loss or muscle gain goals because of improper diet.  I’m not a dietitian, but I’ll share some things…

Crushing the Myth About Heavy Weight Training

One of the most commonly heard myths about lifting heavy weights is that you will get big.
You will NOT get big, bulky muscles from heavy weight training.

Okay, now that we have that out of the way, lets get deeper into dispelling this myth.  It’s got to go.  Lifting heavy weight does build muscle.  But lifting, alone, will not make you into the next Mr. Olympia.  Lifting heavy w…

How Do I Learn to Climb Outside?

Rock Climbing Otter Cliffs guide

Breaking out of the gym and going climbing outside requires a certain level of technical knowledge.  Many experienced climbers who have been at the sport for years overlook the skills that are needed to safely climb outside.  It comes as second nature to them.  But, buy for a new climber, cure all of the knots, cialis systems, belaying, and rope management may seem very daunting.

I hav…

Skin Care Product Review

O'Keeffe's applied fingers not greasy rubbed in

Skin Care products may not be sexy like a shiny, smooth cam, or a new, soft and supple rope, but after a few days at the Red River Gorge, all you’ll be thinking about is how to nurse your sore tips.  Enter skin care.  Today I’ll be reviewing four products:  Climb On!, Joshua Tree Climbing Salve, Burt’s Bees Cuticle Creme, and O’Keeffe’s Working Hands.

Climb On!

The Climb On! Bar is a…

The Last of 2010

New River Gorge

As we drove down to the New River Gorge on Friday night, I knew it would likely be our last trip as I saw the car thermometer dip into the high thirties.  It was going to be a cold couple nights, but it was worth it.

Saturday, we spent our day at Whippoorwill, which is part of Summersville Lake.  As the sun peaked through the clouds we warmed up on Cowboy in the Dirt (8) and then moved over…

Reel Rock Tour 2010

Last week, I went to see the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour at a small university near Pittsburgh.  Quite simply, it was awesome!  Below are some thoughts on my favorites at the tour.

First Round First Minute: It’s always amazing to see Chris Sharma on his projects.  This one focused on his latest project, First Round First Minute, which will likely go at 15b.  In the film, Sharma…

Irrational Fear of Falling

Left Flank Red River Gorge

During our last trip to the New River Gorge, an irrational but strong fear of falling overcame Gaelyn to the point where she was unwilling to climb further, but also unwilling to take a fall… even a practice fall.  We both thought that she had conquered her fear of falling earlier this year, apparently not.  But first… the background story.

About two years ago, when we first started to…

Another New Weekend

Kaymoor New River Gorge Butcher's Branch

Last weekend we went down to the New River Gorge, for potentially our last climbing weekend of the season.  We have some things to do for the next two weeks, so it could be our last if it gets cold.  Friday night camping was quite chilly and dipped down into the low 30’s.  But, we awoke to a perfect, fall morning on Saturday.  We had met some friends down there and were psyched for a perfect…

Arnold vs. Spider Monkey

Skinny dave graham

All climbers fear getting “too big”.  We don’t want excessive muscle bulk because it will hinder our performance on the rock.  Arnold would not be a good climber.  On the other end of the spectrum there is the skinny spider monkey boy.  Lots of climbers look like this and I think it’s a mistake.

Now, first off, I’m no gun show.  I’m still quite thin, but I used to be muc…

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