Reel Rock Tour 2010

Last week, I went to see the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour at a small university near Pittsburgh.  Quite simply, it was awesome!  Below are some thoughts on my favorites at the tour.

First Round First Minute: It’s always amazing to see Chris Sharma on his projects.  This one focused on his latest project, First Round First Minute, which will likely go at 15b.  In the film, Sharma desperately slaps up an overhanging wall, and many of the moves are very cramped and compact.  Looks like a pure suffer fest.  Watching Chris on some of his older projects, most of them were climbs that had long dynamic moves.  FRFM looks very cramped, so it makes sense why he is having trouble with this route.  The coolest part of the short film, for me, was when they showed him climbing some 14a like it was 5.6!  Sharma is rad.

The Hardest Moves: I was really impressed with what Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson are able to hang on to.  These holds would be barely a jib foothold for us mortals.  It was also cool to see them train.  The one armed pull-ups by Woods were amazing… I have some work to do!

The Hulk: This film wasn’t a flashy and adrenaline driven film like the others, but to me, it was the most inspiring.  I was psyched to see what Peter Croft is still climbing in his 50’s.  He’s still crushing hard trad lines on big walls and that gave me hope.  Most of the time, films feature climbers in their prime and usually in their early twenties.  It was inspiring to see Croft climb, and climb extremely well.  He was loving every minute of it and this is exactly how I want my climbing to be.  I would rather spend a lifetime climbing 11s and 12s, than waste myself in three years crushing 14s.

The Swiss Machine: Ueli Steck is a freak, no other way around it.  It’s amazing to see what he can push himself to do.  Not only does he take mind boggling alpine risks, but he flies up the mountain with ease.  This film made me want to do laps around the theatre and crank out pushups!  It reminded me of Patxi Usobiaga in Progression.  They claim they are not any more talented than other climbers, they just train like hell.  If you feel like you are in good shape, check this one out.  Be prepared to be humbled.

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