In today’s video, I review Mammut Liquid Chalk. I really like this stuff and it works for my sweaty hands out here on the humid east coast. If you haven’t checked it out, I highly recommend it. Anyone out there use liquid chalk?
Lifting Heavy Weight
Here’s another podcast in my training series on the myths of heavy weight training. I’ve touched on this before but hopefully this will complement the previous article and add some new things. The main thing to take away from this podcast is that lifting heavy weight will not make you huge!! Your weight gain or loss is predominantly monitored by your nutrition. This podcasts focuses on the myths of heavy weight training. I will do another shortly that talks about the benefits of lifting heavy. Does anyone out there lift heavy weight? More importantly, did you suddenly get HUGE?!
Why Cross Train?
This podcast is dedicated to cross training for climbing. There are lots of advantages to cross training and I go over several. I also give my definition of cross training and how you can effectively cross train for climbing. I definitely get on my soap box on this one!
It’s been about a year since my last podcast. If you would like to hear more podcasts, please let me know. I didn’t think anyone cared about these. If there’s interest, I plan on doing several podcasts on training, and some of the trip reports in podcast form.
Do any of you cross train for rock climbing? What does your training consist of?
Rock Climbing Anchors Book Review
Rock Climbing Anchors
If you are looking for one book on how to place gear into the rock and build anchors, look no further than Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide, by the late Craig Luebben. I have reviewed several books on placing gear and building anchors, and this one is the best, bar none. The information is the most up to date, and the book is loaded with pictures. Rock Climbing Anchors reviews everything from how to place different types of gear, to building anchors for virtually every scenario, including photos. Did I mention the photos in this book?!
The first part of the book starts with some basic terminology dealing with anchors and different forms of climbing. It quickly moves into pre-equalized and self-equalizing anchors. Of course, there are a wide range of photos and the text explains when to use them and how to tie them. The first chapter finishes with different ways to belay a leader and a second. In the interest of keeping this review, relatively short, I’m not going to go into too much detail about each of these topics. I suggest you buy the book!
The next chapter is short, and goes over natural anchors such as trees and rock (boulders, chockstones, etc). Then a short bit on bolts and pitons is presented. After that, the book dives right into the various forms of protection (gear) and how to place them. Nuts, hexes, tri-cams, big bros, and cams are covered in detail. Pretty much everything you want to know about gear is covered in these next two chapters.
Typical photo quality and detail
Tope-rope and rappel anchors are then covered. There are many ways to setup a top-rope anchor and the book gives several examples. It also shows how to use various types of anchors, such as bolts, boulders, or trees. Belaying a top rope from above (bringing up a second) is covered as well, and is quite well done. The next chapter covers sport climbing anchors and how to clip bolts while sport climbing. This is covered in detail and presents some items that even experienced sport climbers may overlook. A very comprehensive chapter on traditional belay anchors is next. Everything from choosing a good anchor position and stance, to how to rig up the anchor with a cordelette. Lots of scenarios are presented, and of course, associated photos are given as well.
The last two chapters cover trad leading and falling forces. These chapters focus on the entire climb rather than one piece of gear or one anchor. They present tactics on leading a route, the first piece, extending gear, reducing drag, falling forces, and typical gear strength. An appendix is provided with various knots that climbers may find useful. How to tie the knots with photos of the knot in various stages of being tied are given.
Overall, Rock Climbing Anchors is superb. Like I said, if you were to choose one book on anchors, gear, leading, and belaying, this would be it. I find it to be the most up to date, easy to follow text out there.
Red River Easter
Every three day weekend we have, we make an attempt to go to the Red River Gorge. The New is our second home, but the Red offers a variety that is unmatched. It has everything from technical slab to overhanging pump fests at every grade! Instead of making the painful drive late Thursday night, we decided to go on Friday morning and put in a half day of climbing. Usually, we are worthless on Sunday anyhow… We went to Lady Slipper – Global Village area on Friday, arriving around 2 pm.
We found this beer. It's incredible.
Loosen Up (10b) – A steep, pumpy warm up. I was actually quite pleased with myself to get the onsight on this one. I’m quite awful at steep terrain, and I was hoping to work on that weakness this weekend. There were some small holds near the top!
Out for Justice (11b) – This one was classic to me. It was incredibly sustained. Usually crimpy routes will let up at some point, offering a good portion of the route with larger holds. Not this one. It was in your face from the start all the way to the chains. I loved it, but suffered. I made it about half way then started hanging at every bolt. I’ll be back to tackle this one again. It was tough to read the sequence and figure out which small crimps to use.
Circa Man (10d) – Right next door to the previous route. I jumped on as the day came to a close and our hunger pains increased. It wasn’t nearly as good as Out for Justice, but still quite fun. Definitely had a defined crux with easier climbing above. Grabbed the onsight and felt quite pleased with day 1.
Back at camp, we ran in to some friends from Pittsburgh we didn’t expect to see. It made the night quite fun, talking about our year of climbing so far and making plans for the rest of the year. We also met some new folks which we hope to meet up with some time at the New. What’s unique about the campground we stay at, Land of the Arches, is that it’s more like a commune, or hostel. It’s a very social and laid back environment where everyone gathers around campfires and makes new friends. It’s not an all night rager, and everyone knows people come there for a good nights rest. We are huge fans!
Saturday, we set our sights on Muir Valley. Muir has it all. The routes are generously bolted and one can find grades of all levels. The terrain is quite varied as well. We scoped out some steeper routes, since we were looking to improve in that area. We started at The Great Wall. The routes aren’t too steep there; more or less dead vertical.
Glory and Consequence (7) – A nice warm up on large ledges. Not much else to say here.
Dynabolt Gold (10a) – Big plates characterized this route. The only large plates on the wall were found on this line. Very fun!
Bitter Ray of Sunshine (10c) – This was a really nice line. You had to move somewhat quickly between the second and fourth bolt through a thinner section to a rest. Once at the rest, you grab some jugs and monkey over a roof. It’s pretty positive from there on out. Nice movement and solid holds on this one.
Edge-a-Sketch (11a) – The guidebook said this was the best route on the wall and I have to agree. The business started from the beginning and pretty much was over by the half way mark. From there, it was managing the pump on the larger holds to the top. Grabbed another onsight.
Momma Cindy (11a) – This one wasn’t as straightforward as Edge-a-Sketch. Body position was more important for the slopers and sidepulls on this one. Still a very enjoyable route and managed another onsight. It was turning into a really good day so far.
We headed over to The Boneyard. I had my eyes on a few of the 11′s. I wanted to scope out the area and see something that looked rad. We ran into some more folks, chatted them up, and made some plans for the New in the coming months! Climbing is awesome.
Captain Blondie Sinks the Ship (11a) – As soon as I saw this line I knew I had to give it a go. It got steep pretty quickly and didn’t let up till the top. It traverses left for most of the steep section and is well bolted. It looked amazing! I really wanted to test my winter training and see if I could snag this steep route. I was pretty pumped near the top but managed to hang on to them jugs and get another onsight!! Wooo!! Definitely the highlight of the day for me. I had a blast the whole way up, even though it was tough for me. I really need to get on steeper stuff. I think I’ve fallen in love with these routes!
One-Armed Bandit (9) – Next door to the previous route was this nice, crimpy line. As with most of the routes at Muir, there were tons of bolts. We enjoyed this one as the day came to a close.
Red River Sky
Iniquity (12b) – I’ve heard Midnight Surf is amazing so we decided to go check it out for ourselves. This is one of the coolest walls I’ve ever seen. The lines are all super high quality and characterized by huge jug ledges up very steep terrain. The moves are big!! I jumped on this one, the easiest perma-drawed route on the wall. The start was a rough boulder problem so I just yarded past it to experience the rest. I made it about half way up and then pitched off. I’ve never had so much fun getting crushed by a route before! I couldn’t turn off the psyche on the walk out. I will definitely be going back to the Surf to work these routes more. I’m so bad at the steeps but I love ‘em!
We woke up Sunday pretty sore. I wanted to check out Eastern Sky Bridge. I’ve heard it’s superb, but the routes were on the harder end for us. Once parked, we walked up the wrong trail and had to traverse the wall, eventually arriving at Eastern Sky. We were originally at Western Sky… thanks guidebook…
Super Dario (11a) – We didn’t feel like walking to the other end for the 5.8 warm up so I jumped on this one. Don’t know if a warm up would have made a difference for me. I got pounded by this classic line. It was a really great climb, but I suffered, working up it bolt to bolt. My arms were throbbing once I got to the bottom.
I guess we had gone a little too hard on Saturday. Three days at the Red has always been punishing for us and we have never had a good climbing day on the last day. We decided to call it a day from there. Mentally, we wanted to climb so much. The routes at Eastern Sky are truly classic. Physically, we were spent. All in all, this was probably our best trip to the Red we’ve ever had. The weather was absolutely perfect and we climbed tons of awesome routes. We are already excited to go back. Memorial Day here we come!!
By the way, sorry for the lack of photos. You should come climb with us so we can take more shots. It’s kind of hard with only two people…
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Well, based on the title of this post, I’m sure you can guess what the highlight was. Alas! One of my long term projects is over! As we drove down to the New River Gorge on Saturday morning, it was sprinkling for most of the time. Things were not looking good. Fortunately, by the time we hit Summersville Lake, it was only misting lightly. We decided to hike in and by then, it had stopped. The mist would periodically show up throughout the day, but it was so light, the rock was never wet. It was cool and cloudy. Surprisingly, the friction was perfect! I wasn’t expecting this at all based on the weather.
She Got the Bosch, I got Drilled (10a) – A great warm up. I guess people forget about this one because it’s on the far right side of the wall. I think it’s far better than Orange Oswald. The movement is great!
Satisfaction Guaranteed (11a) – FINALLY! I’m happy to say that I got the redpoint on this long term project. I have never worked on a route for so long so this one felt really good. I had everything dialed and it felt great to hit every move with precision. I only started to get pumped at the last bolt but was able to push through with a sewing machine leg and all! Such an amazing route. There isn’t much more to say other than I’m super stoked that this project is finished!!
Waterfall at the Lower Meadow
Orange Oswald (10a) – I was still a little pumped from Satisfaction so I fell at the crux around the third bolt. After the fourth bolt, this route is more or less over.
Fabulous Groupies (9) – Fun one on the far left side of Orange Oswald wall. I’ve done it many times before and it’s always enjoyable.
Hippie Dreams (7) – It was there, so we climbed it. Nice cool down on a perfect, late afternoon. It’s probably the best 5.7 at the New.
I can tell you, the beer tasted good that night. We ran into lots of friends at the campground, which made the evening even more enjoyable. Definitely a great day. We even ran into our old friend, Grigore, and his climbing partner Jamie. We made plans to climb with them on Sunday at the Lower Meadow, which I had never been to.
Sunday started with breakfast at The Vandalian, then we met up at the parking lot for the Lower Meadow and made the long hike in.
Unknown (10b) – A fun climb with a tricky crux at the lip, halfway up. You have to move over the lip using some slopers. I struggled at this point, but the rest of the route went down without too much trouble.
Country Love (10b) – A nice route that is pretty dynamic in the beginning, then transitions to some more delicate moves. I hung on one of the draws after the tough bit in the beginning. I should have held on and moved through it…
Tradmaster Grigore high on Tobasco Fur
Winter Harvest (10c) – A great route that is botched by a poorly placed bolt at the crux, in my opinion. You have to traverse under the lip of a roof and come out and up on to the arete around the third bolt. If you climbed it this way, its impossible to reach that bolt. So you have to climb up the crack in the corner, clip the bolt, downclimb, then come out on the arete. I wasn’t liking the consequences of this at all so I ended up stick clipping that third bolt. Once on the arete, the route was lots of fun. Moving up the large plates was great…too bad the bottom bit was weird.
We ended our day there. Grigore flashed an awesome trad route named Tobasco Fur. It was a proud, clean arete that looked really nice. We enjoyed the perfect weather, but after he came down, it was getting late. It was really great to meet up with our old friends and meet some new ones.
This weekend was a huge success for me and I think it will be a really good season. I’m feeling quite strong and will definitely start getting on harder routes. However, I don’t think we will be back to the Lake for a few months…
Day Trip to Coopers Rocks
Gaelyn warming up on Remus
The weather forecast for the New River Gorge was grim, so we decided to forgo a wet weekend on the rock in favor for a dry day on the boulders at Coopers Rocks. Coopers is close enough for a day trip. Our skin wouldn’t hold up to two days of punishment on the gritstone anyhow. Friction usually isn’t a problem at Coopers.
We enjoyed a warm, summer-like day at Upper Rock City. We didn’t remember that the front gate is closed during the off season, so the walk in is supposed to be 3 miles. Unfortunately, we got disoriented on the trails and ended up on the wrong road, making our approach into the rocks around 5 miles. We were tired before we even got climbing! We warmed up on Romulus (V0-) and Remus (V0-) then tried Colorful Corner (V4). Colorful Corner is a very picturesque arete with no holds. We struggled, then moved on to the Tomb Raider Area. I made quick work of Tomb Raider (V3) and then flashed A Touch of Tango (V2) over on the Ship’s Prow boulder. I attempted Poundin’ the Pooch (V3), but couldnt get off the ground. The sit start felt impossible, while the rest of the problem wasn’t too hard.
Slapping the Tomb Raider sloper
I took a look at George Washington’s Nose (V5) and tried to link a few moves. It felt very difficult and technical with a lot of core intensive movement. My skin was screaming at this point. We started our walk out and I solved the puzzle on Dextrose (V3), one of my favorites of the day.
On our way out, I walked over to the Mushroom boulder to scope out and try some of the higher quality, steep problems Coopers has to offer. I tried Mushrooms (V3) and didn’t have a problem with it, except for the sit start. Common problem for me on the steep problems at Coopers. It seems many of them have very low starting holds, putting me in a lock off position from the start. Then you have to manage to get up and make a big move to a small, sharp edge. Either way, the problems on the Mushroom boulder looked very fun and I tried a couple of them.
We made the long walk out, enjoying the sun, shortage of water, and throbbing tips. All in all a good day. Although every time I go to Coopers, I feel like the only thing I accomplish is thrashed skin. Maybe I’m not a boulderer, maybe Coopers just isn’t that great of an area… not sure.
Hangboard Pulley Setup
This is an update to my hangboard setup. I installed a super easy pulley system that will allow me to remove weight very accurately. I can also add weight with the plate weight setup I put together. Be sure to check out my hangboard workout video and hangboard review video if you haven’t seen those yet! Enjoy!
First of 2012
As last year came to an end, we were pretty burnt out. The weather in 2011 was difficult to contend with, and our last trip ended with a minor injury. We were in need of rest. When January rolled around, we were brewing our psych. I bought a hangboard and started training. I trained hard during the winter to make myself as durable and bulletproof as possible with grueling Crossfit workouts. At this point, I’m feeling stronger than I have ever been. Unfortunately, with our move last Fall, we are far from the local climbing gym, so training has consisted of hangboarding and weight lifting.
The weather forcast was supposed to be stellar for this past weekend, and for once, they didn’t lie. It was perfect. Saturday was highlighed by a trip to Summersville Lake.
Souled Out (9) – A nice warm up over at Orange Oswald wall. It was the only route that was open so we nabbed it. I think it’s often overlooked because of the high first bolt. Regardless, it is technical down low, then eases up on the second half. Nice way to get the blood flowing.
The ultimate warm-up: Strike a Scowl
Satisfaction Guaranteed (11a) – This has been a long term project. I’ve never worked a climb this hard. I felt strong and solid on it. After the roof, I shook out for a while at a jug, which was a new tactic for me. Usually, I would gun it and hope I didn’t pump out. I have been working on recovering from a pump on large holds (sounds funny but I struggle to recover). It actually worked and I felt good moving up to the last bolt. For a second I thought I had it. I moved over to the slab section too early, where unfortunately, there are no holds. The route spit me off. Next time, I will send. I will stay left, grab them jugs, and finish this proj!
We started our walk out but I wanted to get on something that would push me and give me a new (and another) project.
Maximum Overdrive (11c) – A very nice route over at Long wall. It’s got some big moves to big holds. Very fun! I hangdogged this one, scoping out some of the hard to see holds and traverses. The climb wanders off the bolt line a bit. It will take several goes to get my fitness up for this one, but I will be back. Nice climb!
Saturday night was chilly and when we woke up Sunday, the clocks had moved forward an hour and it was about 30 degrees. The best solution for this? An OTWG of course! After breakfast, and a trip to Waterstone, we drove to Endless Wall.
Strike a Scowl (10b) – I think this is one of the best moderates in the Gorge. The meat and taters is over by the fourth bolt. Then you are treated with a nice flake to the top with the best views of the river. It’s a truly amazing way to start your day.
Hiking out from Endless Wall
Legacy (11a) – Arguably the best 11a at the New. Total full value and one of the most stellar pieces of rock I have been on. I got on this in the Fall of 2010 and we haven’t been back to Endless since. It felt like an onsight go because I didn’t remember anything. Long pulls to good holds get you under a small roof. Once you pull up and over, a pumpy, arching crack leads you to a small ledge. I was pumped silly at the ledge and didn’t look where I was putting my feet. I attempted some absurd high step and blasted off. Getting back on, I moved up and under the roof, and got a knee bar in to rest for the top. A couple more long pulls led me to the last bolt where I rested once more after seeing what was one more tricky move. I pulled through and made it to the top. Super ultra classic. My weakness is steep, pumpy climbs so I felt good with 2 hangs on this one. I’ll be getting back to this one soon.
It was getting late and I was knackered. We decided to hike out the long way so I could scope out some lines that I have been wanting to get on. There are lots of high quality 11′s out at Endless so I’m sure we will make frequent trips to that wall.
It was a great first trip of the season. It was so warm I didn’t need a shirt on Sunday. Almost too warm. As my swollen fingers type this, I’m excited to get back out there again. Perhaps this weekend? Who knows.
Who else climbed this weekend?
If these trip reports are boring and you would prefer them in podcast form, please tell me in the comments below!!
Is Your Partner Psyched Enough?
It’s that time of year again. The snow is melting, days are getting longer, and it’s warming up… it’s climbing season! Like many, my psyche has been brewing all winter. I finished last season pretty burnt out, but after a month or so off, I’m ready to go again. I almost can’t control my excitement to get out on the rock again. We are planning on going to the New River Gorge this weekend, our home away from home.
Can you feel the psyche coming from your screen?
Earlier this week, I had a conversation with Gaelyn that left me thinking, am I too psyched up? Is she not psyched enough? I couldn’t make sense of it at first. I didn’t understand why she wasn’t bursting at the seams with excitement like I was to get outside. The conversation went something like this as I was looking at the guidebook for the New.
Gaelyn: ”Don’t you know that book by heart yet?”
Me: ”I’m scoping out new projects.”
Gaelyn dismisses me and continues to shop online for shoes.
Me: ”What are your projects this year?”
Gaelyn: ”I don’t have any.”
Gif: ”What do you mean?” My brow furrows. I’m very confused at this point. How can she not have projects? Doesn’t everyone have a to-do list? Isn’t she excited to go climbing? Is she feeling sick?
Gaelyn: ”I guess my project is not to suck.”
At this point, the engineer in me kicks in. You have to quantify your goals right? What does “not suck” mean? You can’t measure suckiness. You must have a way to track your progression right?!
Gaelyn: ”I don’t really have projects like you. I have mental goals.”
She has had difficulty controlling fear while leading the past couple years. So that’s a good goal for sure. I was just surprised that she didn’t have any routes in mind that she wanted to work on this year.
This kind of made me think, do we have compatible levels of psyche? Should she be more revved up like me? Or should I just take a chill pill… it is just climbing rocks after all. Maybe it’s a good thing she’s not exploding like me. Balance is crucial.
How about you guys out there? Are your climbing partners more or less psyched than you? What do you think of this?
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