Early Season Endurance


Well… unfortunately my GoPro is back in California, hopefully being replaced.  After some technical difficulties, we are back to the old style of trip reports.  In an effort to get a good night’s rest, we left Friday night and headed straight to Fayetteville to stay with Chris and Spencer for the weekend.  My MO for this year is to send as many 5.11 routes as possible.  I feel like I’ve wasted two years spending nearly a season sending a route or two in the 5.12 range.  Not good for a climber like me who needs more time on rock and more practice with movement and technique.  There are several crags at the New stacked with 5.11 sport routes, one of the most popular being Butcher’s Branch and Seven Eleven Wall at Kaymoor.

Last hard move on Fine Motor Control

Last hard move on Fine Motor Control

Boing (10d) We warmed up on this little slab route.  It’s easier than the grade suggests and is just the ticket to warm up and get those stiff bones moving.  You are on your feet nearly the whole time so it forces you to focus on movement and smooth climbing versus just yanking on jugs.  Good way to start the day.

Sancho Belige (11c) – I’ve worked this route a bit here and there for a few years.  I’ve never dedicated too much time into it because I always felt it was above my ability at the time and my anti style due to it’s endurance factor.  It doesn’t let up from the first bolt to the chains and dishes out quite the pump.  There aren’t any stopper moves, but there are several sequences that are tough and will get you pumped!  After I one hung this on TR last week to warm up, I was eager to jump on and give it a proper redpoint burn.  Surprisingly, I sent!  I will admit thought, it felt hard until the very end.  Some redpoint burns feel dialed and easy…this one did not.  I fought for it the whole way.

Travis up high

Travis up high

Hardcore Female Thrash (11c) – Our friend, Travis was working this one so I gave it a shot.  There is a really scrunchy move at the third bolt that completely shut me down.  A really high right foot and low right hand had my elbow touching my knee, or at least it felt that way.  This type of move is generally a stopper for me, and this one was no exception.  Oh well.

Ministry (12b) – I tried this short and sweet line last year but was unable to send.  It’s pretty casual 11- climbing to a boulder problem finish that warrants the 5.12 grade.  I know I just said I wouldn’t try 5.12, but I thought I had this one dialed and I knew it wouldn’t sap my energy too much.  I couldn’t figure out the crux this time though.  I tried some different beta but I think my gas tank was on low after Sancho.

The Green Piece (10b) – Travis had the great idea to do a cool down route.  I of course jumped right on and top roped this one to the chains.  It felt amazing to move smoothly and continuously through what might be my favorite 5.10 sport line at the New.  Every time I do this one, I like it more and more.

Our night was characterized by take out Pies and Pints and a little jam session put on by our friend, Paul, at The Grove.  The Grove is a little beer bar above Secret Sandwich Society.  They have local musicians and it’s always a good time.  Be sure to check it out!

Resting Jugs

Resting Jugs

Sunday was spent at Endless.  We didn’t have Brett, so we opted for a place with ladders, which we wouldn’t be able to go to if we had our crag dog.  Plus, time at Endless Wall is limited because of it’s South facing nature.  Once the warm weather comes, Endless is out!

George of the Gorge (9) – I actually had never done this route.  This bolted line is right next to the Fern Creek Ladders.  It’s a bit strange but packs in a variety of moves for the moderate grade.  Fun little route if you are looking for a warm up in the area.

A Little Help From My Friends (10a) – One of our other favorite 5.10 sport lines at the new is this sweet lil’ thang.  This is on the top two for Gaelyn due to it’s slabby nature, fun moves, and great view at the top.  Check it out at Kaymoor Slabs if you are looking for a fun moderate.

Fine Motor Control (12a) – Chris assured me this was easy for the grade.  “It’s a two bolt boulder problem to 5.10.”  I wasn’t sure if he was sandbagging me but Travis wanted to get back on it and try to send so I opted to join.  There description was right on.  The first two bolts are the crux.  I didn’t want to burn too much energy, so I never continued to the top when I fell on the lower crux section, which unfortunately happened three times.  This one didn’t come together this time but I’m sure with cooler temps and fresher muscles, this will be an easy tick for the Fall.

Another great weekend in the books!  Gaelyn and I had a blast with old friends and new.  Some of our best memories are made sitting on a rock in the middle of West Virginia looking out at the gorge and river below.  It truly is a special place for us.

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