Carabiner Orientation: Screw up or down?

Today, I go over carabiner orientation.  Should you screw up or screw down?  Well, today I set the record straight.  It depends if you are using carabiners on an anchor, or using them on your belay loop.  Tune in today to see why.  Anyone do something different?

  • Guy

    Hi there,
    Thanks for all your postings.
    I have one question that might belong here:
    Quickdraw orientation – the upper and the lower biner gates, should they be facing the same direction or be facing back to back (opposite direction)?
    I know that there are different approaches to this dilemma, what you think about it?

    • Gif

      I think it’s complete personal preference.  I like my gates facing the same direction but it really doesn’t matter and neither poses a safety risk from what I have learned.  Biners are very strong these days and gate flutter is a thing of the past, especially with wiregates.  I hope this helps.  Thanks for the comment, Guy!

      • Guy

        wow… that was fast… interesting…
        read this: 

        • Gif

          I’m sure there is some validity to the article but there are so many factors: biner design, dogbone stiffness, hanger shape, hanger orientation, rock surrounding bolt/hanger, rope characteristics, how fast you clip (watch the draws bounce around the next time you clip).  I think the biner orientation is really low percentage when you look at all the factors, but this is just my opinion.

          There are other high percentage things that climbers do like top roping all day on two quickdraws…. don’t get me started on that one!  haha

  • Tburke

    Enjoying your vids.  well done and I appreciate that your are explaining the why.  many climbers avid using judgement and worry about the wrong things when it comes to safety.  Re-dumbdency –  I need to clip my belay biner through two points on my harness for example.  Anyway….nice job.  I’d assert that while the master point carabiners (your 2-ovals) need to be lockers your two that clip to your fixed pro can be non-locking.  I also have started placing the two carabiners on the masterpoint in the same direction with gates facing away form the rock as the abrasion against the rock has often opened the gate facing the rock.  I only do this when I can see the master point on the top rope.

    • Gif

      Thanks for your comment and I agree.  Hopefully I can slay a few sacred cows here and explain things to climbers who do certain things “because that’s what they were told”.  It still amazes me to see people clipping a biner through their tie in points!  It actually is dangerous because biners are to be loaded in only two directions…not three.  

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