Beginner Hangboard Workout

In this video, I give you a beginner hangboard workout.  I got this from the Anderson’s article, Making of a Rockprodigy.  Check out the Mountain Project forum for more information from the Andersons and others.  Also, check out Steve Bechtel’s great blog on training for climbing.  These guys know their stuff!

The workout goes like this:

Pick 7-10 grip positions.  Each position is a set.

A set = 5 repetitions

A repetition is a 10 second hang, then a 5 second rest.

After each set, rest 2 minutes.

Let me know how the workout goes for you in the comments below!

  • Josh Saunders

    looks good, I so need some of these but being a renter I can’t put anything on door ways or walls.. I wish there was some sort of free standing grip and climber training thingy I could buy.

    • http://www.rockclimberlife.com Gif

      Thanks for the comment Josh.  I have two solutions for you.  One, check out Tristan’s free standing hangboard plans at 
      http://freestandinghangboard.com/   He’s a good guy.  Option two, check out the doorway hanging hangboard over at 
      http://www.blankslateclimbing.com/ .  I think one of those options should suit you.

      • Josh Saunders

        thank you so much!
        im thinking im going to do the build the freestanding one.

        • http://www.rockclimberlife.com Gif

          If you buy the plans for the freestanding board, please tell Tristan I sent you.  Thanks Josh!  

  • brian janaszek

    I highly recommend checking out the routines from the Brits at http://www.beastmaker.co.uk.  They’ve really done their homework for maximizing efforts on a board.

    • http://www.rockclimberlife.com Gif

      The beastmaker guys are monsters!  Their protocol for hangboarding is very similar to the one in my video.  They prescribe 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off for 6-7 reps.  This is actually pretty much the same as the “Advanced hangboard workout” from the Anderson’s.  I like their idea of dead hangs to break into a grip when you can’t complete a set.  I will use this technique.  

      I really want a beastmaker board but I’m sure the shipping is outrageous.  If they were easy to get, I would get one.  Thanks for the comment Brian!

      • brian janaszek

        I bought a Beastmaker 2000 last year, and it is truly awesome, but, as you point out, it ain’t cheap.  I looked at it as an investment, since I only get to the gym once or twice a week, and use a board twice a week.  I can never hang on plastic boards again!

        • http://www.rockclimberlife.com Gif

          I hear ya man.  I only get to the gym once a week now because it’s far.  How much was shipping to the US?  Why do you like wood so much more than plastic?  I’m assuming because it’s less rough on your skin.  But then how’s the friction?  Do you have to chalk up more often?  Do you know how it compares to the Metolius Wood board?  Thanks Brian!!

          • brian janaszek

            I’ve had the board for 18 months or so, now, so I don’t recall the exact price, but it was pretty reasonable.

            Wood is much more comfortable to hang on.  I could hang on those edges forever.  We have a Metolius plastic board, too, and I will only hang from the jugs–those sharp edges are just too uncomfortable compared to wood (and I’ve sanded down the Metolius).

            I don’t notice friction issues with the pockets, edges, and shallow slopers (I can warm-up without chalk).  The steeper slopers, though, are a whole other story.  I find that a bit of chalk + warming my hands with my breath provides the best friction.  The idea is that without much texture, you are truly working your contact strength, as opposed to using hold texture.  

            The steep slopers are frustrating, though–they are certainly conditions dependent, and some days I can do full reps on the 35 degree slopers, and other days I can’t.

            I’ve not used a wooden Metolius board, but they look pretty good.  They don’t have the same range of holds as the Beastmaker (particularly slopers), but still, it’s a nice option.

          • http://www.rockclimberlife.com Gif

            Sounds great!  I totally agree on the texture reducing the contact strength needed.  The So Ill board I have has a lot of texture.  I notice the sloping edge is very easy to hang on because I have more skin area contacting the board.  Obviously, this isn’t the best way to train strength, like you said.  

            I think I will take some sandpaper to my board and see if I can improve it.  It’s really rough.  Perhaps in a year or so I’ll upgrade to a Beastmaker.  I’m not even close to strong enough to take full advantage of the holds on that board.  

            Thanks for your advice here Brian!  

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