Advanced Hangboard Workout
In the above video, I go through the Advanced Hangboard Workout routine I have been using the past several months with great success. This protocol comes from the Anderson brothers’ article, “Making of a Rockprodigy”. I would only suggest you start hangboarding when you can climb in the 5.11 range. If you are still working 5.9’s and 5.10’s, you should work on your technique and log more miles on rock. If you have never hangboarded before, I suggest the beginner hangboard routine in this video. The advanced hangboard workout is as follows:
- Choose 5-8 grip positions.
- A repetition will be 7 seconds dead hang, 3 seconds rest.
- For each grip position, you will do 7 x 7 sec on/3 sec off, then 2 min rest, then 6 x 7 sec on/3 sec off, then 2 min rest, then 5 x 7 sec on/3 sec off, then 3 min rest.
- After 3 minutes of rest, move on to the next grip position.
When hanging, you are just doing a simple dead hang with your shoulders engaged to protect the shoulder joint. No pull-ups or anything like that. Just hang on!
So to repeat, for each grip position, the first set will be 1:10 in total (7 x 7/3), the second set is 1:00 in total (6 x 7/3), the third set is 0:50 in total (5 x 7/3). 2 min rest between sets, and 3 minutes rest between grip positions.
If you have any questions, let me know in the comments!